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Free · New & used · Any APR

Auto loan calculator with extra-payment savings

Calculate your monthly car payment with any down payment, trade-in, and APR. See total interest paid across 3-, 4-, 5-, and 6-year terms for new or used cars.

2026 auto loan reality · Federal Reserve G.19 Consumer Credit · Experian State of Auto Finance
New 60-mo APR ≈ 7.2% · Used ≈ 11.4%
FRB G.19 commercial bank average for new vehicles sits near 7.2% in Q1 2026; used-vehicle financing remains stubbornly above 11%. The new-vs-used APR gap is the widest it's been since 2009.
Most calculators default to a single rate. We pre-load the new/used split because the buy-vs-finance decision flips entirely once you account for the 400+ bps spread.

The 20/4/10 rule

The classic affordable-car formula:

  • 20% minimum down payment
  • 4 years maximum loan term
  • 10% maximum total transportation cost (payment + insurance + gas) as a share of gross income

Most Americans break all three of these and end up upside down (owing more than the car is worth). Following 20/4/10 guarantees you stay in equity.

$30,000 auto loan by term and APR

Term5% APR7% APR10% APR
3 yr$899 ($2,366)$926 ($3,346)$968 ($4,847)
4 yr$691 ($3,159)$719 ($4,488)$761 ($6,529)
5 yr$566 ($3,968)$594 ($5,652)$637 ($8,245)
6 yr$483 ($4,793)$511 ($6,840)$556 ($9,996)
7 yr$424 ($5,634)$453 ($8,053)$498 ($11,789)

Format: monthly payment (total interest). 84-month loans cost 2× the interest of 36-month loans.

Dealer financing vs credit union

Credit unions and online lenders (Capital One Auto, LightStream) consistently offer 1–3% lower APRs than dealer financing. Get pre-approved before stepping on a lot — it becomes your ceiling. Let the dealer try to beat it; if they can, take it. If not, use your pre-approval.

Auto Loan Calculator FAQ

How much car can I afford?

Following the 20/4/10 rule: 20% down, 4-year max term, total transportation ≤10% of gross income. On $75k gross ($6,250/mo), max ~$625/mo for car payment + insurance + gas. That maps to about a $25k–$28k vehicle.

Should I lease or buy?

Buy if you drive 12k+ miles/year, keep cars 5+ years, or modify them. Lease if you want a new car every 3 years, drive under 12k miles, and value warranty coverage. Buying is almost always cheaper over a 10-year horizon; leasing trades higher long-run cost for lower current payment.

What's a good auto loan APR in 2026?

Excellent credit (740+): 5.5–6.5% on new, 6.5–8% on used. Good credit (680–739): 7–9% new, 8.5–10.5% used. Fair (620–679): 9.5–13% new, 11–15% used. Subprime (under 620): 15–22%+ — often more cost-effective to delay and rebuild credit.

Is 0% APR a real deal?

Usually yes, but limited to top credit tiers (760+) and specific models the manufacturer is pushing. Often the 0% requires you forgo a rebate ($2,000–$5,000) — calculate which is cheaper. 0% on the sticker often costs more than 6% APR + rebate.

Should I make a large down payment?

At least 20% to avoid being underwater (loan balance > car value). Cars depreciate 20% in year one — a 0% down 7-year loan stays upside down for 4+ years. If you total it during that period, GAP insurance fills the gap; otherwise you're paying off a wrecked car.

Can I refinance my auto loan?

Yes, anytime — and you should if rates drop 1%+ or your credit score improved 50+ points since origination. Lenders like LightStream, Capital One, and PenFed make this easy. Watch for prepayment penalties on the original loan (rare but possible).

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Methodology, sources, and editorial standards

The auto loan calculator on this page uses the same closed-form math published by the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission's consumer-investor portal at Investor.gov and the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau. Every number you see is generated client-side in your browser — no data is sent to our servers, no account is required, and no personally identifiable information is stored or shared. The calculation assumes constant rates and contributions over the modeled period; real-world returns, fees, and tax treatment vary year to year, and the figures presented are educational projections, not personalized financial advice.

We cite primary data sources directly within the FAQs and snapshot block above. Historical return assumptions are drawn from NYU Stern's historical returns database (Aswath Damodaran) and Robert Shiller's S&P 500 dataset. Inflation comparisons rely on the Bureau of Labor Statistics CPI series. Mortgage and credit-card market data come from Freddie Mac's PMMS and the Federal Reserve's G.19 release, respectively. Where we publish our own multi-scenario research, the dataset is available under a Creative Commons CC-BY 4.0 license at snowballr.io/data.

Snowballr is an independent, ad-supported publication. We do not sell financial products, accept affiliate commissions on bank, brokerage, or loan products, or take payment for editorial placement. Our editorial standards describe how we source, fact-check, and update every calculator and guide. The full master sources index lists every primary reference used across the site, organized by topic. For corrections, updates, or fact-checking inquiries, contact us via the contact page; we typically respond within 24–48 hours.

Important disclaimer: This calculator is provided for educational purposes only. It does not constitute investment, tax, accounting, legal, or financial-planning advice and should not be used as the sole basis for any decision about your money. Compound projections, debt-payoff schedules, and retirement estimates depend on assumptions that will change in real life — investment returns are not guaranteed, market downturns can extend recovery timelines, fees and taxes reduce realized growth, and inflation erodes the real purchasing power of nominal balances. Before making a financial decision based on any number you calculate here, consult a fiduciary financial advisor, a licensed tax professional, or both, as appropriate to your situation. Past performance does not guarantee future results.

Who uses this calculator

The auto loan calculator is used by three distinct audiences, each for a different question. New investors and savers use it to answer the foundational "what could this become?" question — they enter conservative monthly amounts and realistic return assumptions to see whether building meaningful wealth on a normal salary is actually possible. The answer, for almost every income level, is yes; the math just requires patience and consistency that intuition resists. Mid-career professionals use the same tool to stress-test their retirement plan against catch-up contributions, late-career raises, and the trade-off between paying down debt and investing in tax-advantaged accounts.

Pre-retirees and recent retirees use the calculator to validate withdrawal sustainability and to model what happens if a market downturn coincides with the start of retirement. Educators, financial coaches, and personal-finance bloggers use Snowballr's calculators in their teaching because every input is visible, every formula is documented, and the year-by-year breakdown lets learners see exactly where compounding pulls ahead of contributions. We support that use case explicitly under our Creative Commons license — you can embed any calculator on your own site using the snippet generator at /widgets and cite Snowballr per the citation guide.

Common assumptions and how to interpret the numbers

The output is only as accurate as the inputs and the assumptions that bridge them to real life. Three categories of assumption deserve the most scrutiny. Returns are nominal unless explicitly labeled real (inflation-adjusted); a seven-percent nominal return is closer to four-percent real, which materially changes long-horizon projections. Inflation itself averaged just under three percent in the U.S. from 1928 through 2024 but ran above five percent in roughly fifteen of those years and below zero in three. Average expense ratios for index funds dropped from roughly one-and-a-half percent in 2000 to under a tenth of a percent today, but actively managed mutual funds still average about half a percent — which translates to a quarter of the final balance lost to fees over a thirty-year horizon at typical contribution rates.

Taxes affect both contributions and withdrawals in ways the headline number does not show. Pre-tax contributions in a traditional 401(k) or IRA receive a deduction today but trigger ordinary income tax on withdrawal. Roth contributions are post-tax today but grow and withdraw tax-free. Taxable brokerage accounts pay tax annually on dividends and at sale on capital gains. If you are comparing projected balances across account types, equalize by reducing pre-tax balances by your expected retirement tax rate and adding back the dividend drag on the taxable account; otherwise the comparison is misleading. Our 401(k) vs Roth IRA comparison walks through this explicitly with worked examples at three tax-bracket scenarios.

For inputs you are uncertain about, run the calculator twice with a high and a low value to see how sensitive the answer is to your assumption. If a two-percent rate change moves the final balance by less than ten percent, the assumption is not very load-bearing. If it moves the balance by forty percent or more, that input dominates the model and deserves the most careful estimation. The single highest-leverage input in almost every compound-interest scenario is time — every additional year compounds geometrically — followed by rate, then contribution, then starting principal in roughly that order.